Iceland: The Land of Fire and Ice

Iceland in 3 words would be dramatic, windy, and surprising.

Dramatic, because of the stunning, ever-changing landscape and volatile weather. Here, volcanoes wait patiently under blankets of snow, disguised as glaciers with long names. Basalt columns stand by as pitch-black beaches descend into cold, rough seas filled with artic char and whales. The sky often dances between showers and sun. Woolly sheep graze lazily as rugged Icelandic horses gallop across the green and gold tundra, tossing their long manes. There are no trees in sight for hundreds of miles. Here, lava fields reign.

Windy, because it is literally THE windiest place on Earth that people actually live. There exist two other windier places, but they happen to be uninhabitable. So, welcome to the windiest country on Earth! The breeze varies between lovely and whipping icy cold death, but is usually blowing. Bring your wool hat!

Surprising, because even though it is located in the middle of nowhere, Iceland is very well maintained and even progressive in areas. It is spotlessly clean, as is the nation’s ecological footprint- geothermal energy for the win! Nearly every building is heated via this method, meaning no pollution or hot water bills (hot lagoon spas are great too….) There are less than 340,000 people in all of Iceland, 2/3 of whom live in Reykjavik. As such, the remainder of the country is incredibly remote- there is hardly anything outside of Reykjavik except tiny fishing villages. Yet somehow, every building has a fresh, bright coat of paint, even if it’s on the side of a cliff and it’s the only farm in sight. I haven’t even seen a single bathroom stall out of order! It feels as though everybody truly cares here. Not to mention, the quality of the food is fantastic- the fish were caught this morning, and – look! the lamb sausage just walked by your window! And on top of it all, the towns are authentic. The culture hasn’t been affected by over-tourism or social media yet; here, you can truly experience a pristine world.

We stepped off the plane and into the Blue Lagoon, which is a famous geothermal spa known for it’s rich minerals and healing properties. What better way to un-kink after an overnight flight than a floating massage in a steamy blue lagoon? We moseyed around in fuzzy white robes, stood under sulfur-smelling waterfalls, melted in the steam hut, dried off in the sauna, applied lava scrub and algae masks at the face mask bar, and swam over to the lagoon bar for a refreshing drink. I also purchased $15 Icelandic sea salt chocolate…which, for the record, I do not regret.

• I’d recommend: the Blue Lagoon Premium package that includes a robe and slippers (it is…how shall I say…NOT WARM outside of the lagoon) and consider tacking on a floating massage- this was so relaxing and worth it!: https://www.bluelagoon.com/day-visit/the-blue-lagoo

Reykjavik is bright, colorful, lively and artistic. I was delighted with this city! There is an authentic seaport vibe paired with an impressively hip downtown. Vibrant boutiques, coffeehouses, restaurants and pubs line the stone streets as people bustle to and fro, scarves whipping about as they walk dogs with fluffy coats. Large planters full of flowers decorate the sidewalks. Weather-wise, we had bright sun and blue skies paired with an icy breeze the whole time (joy!), leading us to purchase wool hats and an extra sweater rather quickly (hence the blue patterned one you may spot in my photos- must appear as Icelandic as possible!)

Not to worry, we quickly made up for this unforeseen purchase by joining a fabulous and free walking tour by City Walk, during which a whimsical local Icelander showed us around the city for 2 hours. In a sing-songy accent, he taught us about how the modern Icelandic language is exactly the same as Old Norse: in it’s isolation, the language was fossilized here, whereas Vikings on the mainland eventually saw their language evolve into Danish, Swedish, Norwegian and the like. Our guide went on to describe how Iceland has never had an army of it’s own and never needed one, simply because no one wants to take over Iceland (…he had a good sense of humor.) In fact, Denmark didn’t blink an eye when Iceland casually announced independence and sidled away during WWII, and our guide joked that Sweden even turned them down when offered up by Denmark! So, much of Iceland’s history over the past century has been separate and unaffected by the world’s dramas- leading to no drama of their own and a very peaceful culture- it’s the safest country in the world!

We rounded out our days and our bellies in Reykjavik with the local cuisine of seafood, fish ‘n chips and their world famous lamb hot dogs. We then walked it off down streets called Austurstraeti, Bankastraeti, Laugavegur and Skolavoroustigur. At night, we sought out a trendy hostel bar called KEX, which was dark and roomy with people playing cards and chatting in small groups- recommended if you’re looking for chill vibes to wind down and recharge before your next adventure.

• Where we stayed: Center Hotel Plaza, a modern hotel in a fantastic location by the main square in the old town, walking distance to everything, but may be pricey for a longer stay: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/plaza.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1. I’d suggest KEX hostel for a popular budget option, both private and shared rooms are available and in walking distance to everything as well: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/kex-hostel-reykjavik1.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1
• Where we ate: Fish Market (incredible, pricey and worth it), Reykjavik chips (cheap, awesome gourmet french fries), Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand (very popular, try to go when there is no line), Fish and More (fresh fish and delicious fish soup, moderately priced), Reykjavik Roasters (local coffee)
• Free walking tour: https://citywalk.is/

Our next stop was Fludir to explore the Secret Lagoon. Although it’s not exactly a secret anymore, it is much smaller and more intimate than the Blue Lagoon, off the beaten path and away from the crowds. I loved this lagoon. It’s a mammoth-sized hot bath in the middle of nowhere. It is also known as the oldest natural swimming pool in Iceland. The hilarious irony of brightly colored pool noodles floating around next to an ancient stone Viking bath house was too perfect. Here, we drifted around, gazing up at the clouds while chatting about what names we’d have if we were Vikings and what Icelandic sheep thought about all day.

• Where we stayed: Guesthouse Fludir, a cozy log cabin bed and breakfast adjacent to the Secret Lagoon:  https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/guesthouse-fludum.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1

The following day, we drove the Golden Circle route. We stood in the cool mist of the massive, roaring Gullfoss waterfall; jumped as hot Geysirs sprayed; and marveled at the raw beauty that is Thingvellir National Park. The view from the landing at the Visitor Centre at Hakid is dramatic, mountainous and full of lava rock. It is also the only place in the world where you can stand on the North American tectonic plate and look across the lake at the Euroasia plate! They drift apart at the rate of 1 inch per year.

Forging north to Snaefellsnes peninsula, we slammed on the brakes just in time to avoid a dog herding dozens of sheep across the gravel road, closely followed by a laughing, blonde farmer in a bonnet. She waved apologetically as she chased after her flock, and, a bit dazzled, we continued on our way, craggy mountains on our right and sparkling seaside to our left.

Arriving at Guesthouse Langaholt, we were greeted by a gentleman in a top hat who resembled Willy Wonka. Our room was cozy with a huge window opening to the mountains, the sea and the sunset. Nearly the entire breakfast spread was homemade, including the lamb sausage, cheese and bread (which I later came to realize is the norm in the countryside- too far for delivery!) Guesthouse Langaholt was our home base for the next few days as we walked the stunning lava rock coast from Arnarstape to Hellnar, stood in the shadow of an ancient giant rock dwarf, strolled along Djupalonssandur Beach, gazed up at the glacier-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano and circled the base of beautiful, grassy Kirkjufell mountain.

• Where we stayed: Guesthouse Langaholt, an inviting, family-run guesthouse with scenic views, homemade breakfast and a good restaurant. It also has an on-site golf course for warmer months: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/langaholt.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1
• I’d recommend: The coastal walk from Arnarstape to Hellnar through the lava fields. It is easy, fairly flat, and takes about 30 minutes one way, so you can walk it there and back in about an hour- or a bit longer if you stop and take as many photos as we did!

We wrapped up our tour of Snaefellsnes peninsula in Stykkisholmur- a pretty little fishing town with a harbor chock full of brightly colored boats. Narfeyrarstofa restaurant served up the most incredible homemade herbed lamb sausage I’ve ever had. John thought it tasted a bit like marijuana, however also reported it was the best lamb sausage he’s had. We stayed in a modern wooden lodge nearby and sat in the common room sipping beer (John) and wine (me) as we booked upcoming adventures in the Philippines.

• Where we stayed: Hotel Stundarfridur, a new wooden lodge several minutes outside Stykkisholmur with updated rooms, an inviting common area with a bar, and of course, breakfast included!: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/stundarfridur.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1
• Where we ate: Narfeyrarstofa, in the center of town. Epic food. Try the lamb sausage.

We journeyed on to the South Coast, passing grassy cliffs and waterfalls adorned with rainbows (literally…there were rainbows over waterfalls. Was the Lucky Charms advertisement created here!? See photo below for proof.) We stayed near the town of Vik for two nights and checked out the legendary Reynisfjara black sand beach, local restaurants (highly recommend Sudir!) and a craft brewery.

The following day we casually hiked a glacier in Skaftafell National Park. THIS WAS INCREDIBLE and ranks as our favorite experience in this country so far. Also, I don’t say “casually hiked a glacier” lightly. Our guide was a skinny, laid-back New Zealander who has done everything from scale glaciers to surf waves. He had sandy hair and the workings of a beard, and everything was “awwwwhh nawww it’s alrighttttt, you’ll be okayyyy!”

He told us point blank that he came to Iceland because he ran out of money in Europe. He also was so laid back that he once forgot his “big stick” (Read: Very Important Ice Pick Tool used by Guide to carve out Trekking Pathways) somewhere in the crevasses behind us and had to run back, skipping around like a mountain goat to find it.  A mountain goat with no ropes! Nevertheless, he led us faithfully and safely around the topography of the glacier, explaining how it was created from the pressure of layers and layers of snow, and taking us on some very cool and unconventional pathways. As John gleefully announced, “What’s the point of life if you aren’t occasionally on the verge of death!” Just kidding though, it was truly first-rate 🙂

• Where we stayed: Near Vik- Farmhouse Lodge: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/farmhouse-lodge.en-gb.html and Near Skaftafell National Park- Hof 1 Hotel: https://www.booking.com/hotel/is/hof-1-hotel.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1
• Where we ate: Sudir, in the town of Vik. Seriously fantastic meal and a more options than your typical Icelandic fare.
• Skaftafell Glacier Hike (book in advance, they fill up quickly): https://www.mountainguides.is/category/from-skaftafell

Our last stop was Jökulsárlón, a glacial lagoon whose deep blue waters are dotted with icebergs broken off from the surrounding glacier. Here, they pause before floating out to the Atlantic Ocean. The sight of these sparkling icebergs on their sapphire lake was was truly a glamorous thing of nature. If we had more time, I would have chosen to hop on one of the boat tours gliding between the glaciers, but on this day we had to head back towards the airport.

In Iceland, we learned that the high altitude of the volcanoes are the reason the snow falls and the glaciers are created. The slow and steady melting of glacial ice is vital in sending cold, nutrient-rich currents deep into the ocean so that fish thrive and Iceland can fuel it’s economy. It is truly a nation built on fire and ice. Skál! (cheers!) and ‘Lesko ahead with our next adventure: Scotland,  aka The Land of my People: Redheads.

• Where we stayed on our last night: We found it very helpful to stay in Keflavik city, aka 5 minutes from Keflavik International Airport, to avoid any long drives on the day of our flight. Here is a list of options in Keflavik: https://www.booking.com/searchresults.xu.html?iata=KEF&aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1We stayed at Nupan Deluxe and it was good value for what we needed!