Imagine waking up to birds chirping and a crisp autumn breeze blowing through your open window. You peer outside from your loft in Montreux to see a bustling street, several rows of rooftop gardens and beyond, Lake Geneva, calm and blue in the distance. The sun is shining. You hurry down five winding flights of stairs, grab a fresh croissant and hop on the train. Fifteen minutes later, you find yourself transported to St. Saphorin, a quiet, medieval village on the banks of Lake Geneva. Across the water behind you, the Alps blend high into the hazy blue sky. In front of you, terraced vineyards rise steeply in green and gold rows, framing the stone houses of St. Saphorin and extending far along the north coast creating a soft, beautifully sculpted horizon. Harvest has just ended. The tasting caves are ready. Welcome to the seat of one of the greatest, most beautiful and perhaps least discovered wine regions in the world: Lavaux, Switzerland, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We stayed in Lavaux for 4 days and 4 nights, which was perfect. I’ve decided that Lavaux is one of those places that you can continue to come back to again and again, because, well…every year there is a new vintage one must try, isn’t there? 😉
Actually, the region itself is expansive and although it is famed in Switzerland for its wine, Lavaux has far more than grapes to offer. Some of its highlights include lively and historical lakeside towns with an impressive culinary scene, relaxing boat rides on Lake Geneva, beautiful mountain hikes and summit viewpoints, medieval Chateau Chillon and even the nearby region of Gruyeres, famous for its cheese and chocolate. There is something for everyone in Lavaux, from age 9 to 99.
I found it helpful to have a plan for Lavaux, because it is a vast region with a lot to offer. This post details our diverse 4 day itinerary including wine tasting, vineyard walks, boats, mountains, and more! Three days are in the Lavaux region itself and one day involves a day-trip to Gruyeres. Naturally, you can switch any of these days around depending on your preferences or the weather. As a result of Europe’s dry summer this year, we had gorgeous, sunny skies all four days…again!
- Before we begin: a mini logistics-session. I always find it helpful to understand the “W’s” and the “H” of a new destination to orient myself before planning a trip, especially if it’s a large region. See below:
- What (is it): As mentioned above, Lavaux is a region of Switzerland along Lake Geneva’s north coast that is known for it’s beautiful, historical terraced vineyards and excellent wine; namely the light, crisp, white Chasselas grape; however, they also grow a variety of other delicious whites and reds.
- Where (to stay): The Lavaux region is located between Lausanne to the northwest and Montreux to the southeast. Most of the terraced vineyards are between St. Saphorin and Lutry. Staying in Lausanne, Vevey or Montreux are all excellent options as they are small cities accessible by both car and train and offer many options for accommodations, restaurants and shops (we stayed in Montreux). If you prefer a quieter and more off-the-beaten path vibe, the medieval towns of Lutry or Rivaz are wonderful options- they are also accessible by train. But, as they are small villages, make sure to check if your accommodation is accessible by car or if you’ll need to walk a cobblestone street or a terraced wine path to get there! The gorgeous vineyard views will be worth it, though.
- How (to get around): There is a train that runs between all towns along the lake frequently and all day long. It is a 30 minute train ride from Montreux to Lausanne, and the villages in between are an even shorter ride. There is also a ferry boat that runs several times a day, which is a lovely option for seeing the shoreline from a different view. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, the train and the ferry are fully covered. Just look up the SBB timetables here: https://www.sbb.ch/en/timetable.html You can also travel by car, although using Switzerland’s easy public transportation is a breath of fresh air- plus, you don’t have to worry about parking!
- When (to go): I’d recommend summer or autumn to take advantage of the beautiful, warm weather, the wine festivals and the autumn harvest. You can look up festival schedules online, and they do not necessarily need to be wine-related- for example, the Montreux Jazz Festival is held annually in July.
- Why: The wine! Oh, and the gorgeous lakeside and mountainous landscape, the relaxed, local vibe and lack of tourists, the walks among the terraced vineyards, and simply to experience a stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Day 1: A Walk Among the Terraced Vineyards- with Wine Tasting
This is a must-do in Lavaux. It is one of the most iconic and beautiful ways to experience the region. The walk follows a paved pathway that winds through the vineyards, passing through villages and offering breathtaking panoramic views of the wine terraces, Lake Geneva and the Alps the entire way. The main route is called “Terraces de Lavaux” and it is well-marked along the way by yellow signs with a green square. The full route starts in St. Saphorin and ends in Lutry.
A few important and truthful notes as to your options here: the full route is 7.3 miles (11.7 km) in total and takes 3 hours and 15 minutes to walk without stops (Ahh…) It is moderate in difficulty (AHH…) And if it is hot out, it can be strenuous for short intervals when ascending hills (AHHH!!) We took half a day and did the entire walk with a few stops to taste wine and have lunch and it was wonderful and rewarding physical exercise; but, I realize this is not for everyone. Don’t worry at all though: the good news is that you don’t need to walk the whole route to get the full experience. Read on!
One significantly shorter but equally lovely option is to walk from St. Saphorin to Rivaz (30 minutes), where you can stop to taste wines from the entire region at Vinorama (no reservation needed), have a bite to eat and then walk back to St. Saphorin to enjoy the view from the other direction. Alternatively, just hop on the train back to your home base or to Lutry.
A second option is to take the train from Vevey up to Chexbres, explore the village and then walk down to Rivaz (30 minutes). From here, you can continue your walk back to St. Saphorin if you haven’t walked this way yet (another 30 minutes), or hop on the train home or to Lutry.
- Travel tip: 1) remember to bring water on your walk, I drank at least 2 liters! and 2) there are not many restaurants in Rivaz- the only one I know about is Auberge de Rivaz. Vinorama offers a small bar menu. My suggestion is: if you are not sure what is open and want to plan for a proper lunch, it is smarter to pack a picnic, purchase a bottle of wine after your tasting and enjoy lunch at your leisure on a bench somewhere with a beautiful view!
If you do make it to Lutry by walking or by train, it is a delightful medieval village with cobblestone streets and a good number of restaurants and bars. We enjoyed our second wine tasting of the day while watching the sun set at Terres de Lavaux (no reservation needed) and then walked into the Lutry village center where we stumbled upon the BEST burger joint I have experienced in years: Le Non-Stop. Apparently, the Swiss don’t just make world-class cheese and chocolate with their cows…!
- Vinorama in Rivaz: http://www.lavaux-vinorama.ch/en
- Terres de Lavaux in Lutry: http://www.terresdelavaux.ch/
- Le Non-Stop gourmet burger joint: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g776263-d3786345-Reviews-Le_Non_Stop-Lutry_Canton_of_Vaud.html
Day 2: A Cogwheel Train up to Rochers-de-Naye Summit, a Beautiful Hike and a Picnic
Ready for gorgeous mountaintop views and fresh Alpine air? Pack a picnic with you (and maybe a bottle of wine, because…wine not? You’re in wine country! Don’t forget an opener!) head to the Montreux train station and take the cog railway up to the Rochers-de-Naye summit (55 minutes). From here, first walk up the hill to the viewing deck to take in the sweeping views of the Alps, the Swiss Riviera and Lake Geneva. Sigh…bliss!
From the Rochers-de-Naye summit, there are many hiking options for all levels. We followed the path down to Haut-de-Caux. This was relatively easy as it was mostly downhill, but for the same reason I’d recommend hiking poles if you want to be more surefooted. This trail crossed a mountain ridge, wound down through wooded areas and had beautiful views of Lake Geneva and the Riviera throughout. Including a leisurely picnic with family friends and an even more leisurely walking pace, I believe this walk took us approximately 3 hours. From Haut-de-Caux, we took the cog railway back down to Montreux.
If you have the energy later on this afternoon, hop on the train and have dinner in a Lavaux town you have not explored yet (Vevey is a great option with numerous restaurants and bars.) Alternatively, just relax or wander around your own town 🙂
- Travel tip: if you’d like to keep to a schedule, check the SBB train timetables before you go, as the Rochers-de-Naye train runs hourly. Also know that Haut-de Caux is “stop on request,” so just wave to the train driver as he nears the station and he will stop to pick you up. How delightfully charming and Swiss!
Day 3: Chateau Chillon and a Boat Ride on Lake Geneva
If you are staying in Montreux as we did, start your morning with a refreshing walk along the colorful, Mediterranean-like southeast coast of Lake Geneva towards Chateau Chillon (35 minutes).
Soon you will arrive at Chateau Chillon, an impressive fairy-tale like medieval castle built on a rocky outcropping on the banks of Lake Geneva. It dates all the way back to the Bronze Age and is by far the largest and most intact medieval castle I have toured yet. The stone courtyards, banquet halls, bedrooms, hallways, kitchens, staircases, wine caves, dungeons and balconies seem to never end, winding along and connecting within the castle walls. There is even a secret passageway that you can walk through! The Swiss have excavated an incredible number of artifacts from the site which are all on display throughout the rooms, giving life to the posted stories and descriptions. You could wander this castle for hours imagining how it might have been back in the days of Lords and Ladies.
After a morning spent daydreaming about castle life, stroll along the lake through the castle garden to the pier (5 minute walk), where you can catch the next ferry boat from Chateau Chillon to Lausanne (look up the timetable on SBB beforehand. The Swiss Travel Pass fully covers a second class fare.) Now, all there is to do is sit back and enjoy the view as your boat cruises past the magnificent green and gold vineyards of Lavaux…for 2 unhurried hours! I’d say it’s about time for a glass of wine…. If you’re feeling peckish, there are typically restaurants on board; but as usual, I’m a fan of the BYO picnic to save money and eliminate any stress associated with advance reservations 🙂
- Travel tip: You can also do the Lake Geneva cruise the other way, starting in Lausanne and ending at Chateau Chillon. Just be sure to enter the castle before 5 PM to have time to explore it! More information on Lake Geneva cruise options here: https://www.lake-geneva-switzerland.com/lavaux/lake-geneva-pleasure-cruises-from-vevey-and-lausanne/
Day 4: Cheese and Chocolate: A Day-Trip to Gruyeres
If you’ve had enough of wine (for now…) and want to indulge in Switzerland’s other famous foods, a day-trip to the region of Gruyeres is just what you need. Mid-morning, drive 30 minutes to Maison Cailler, because there is absolutely nothing better to start your day off with than a Swiss chocolate factory!
Here, take a fun audio-guide tour through the factory to discover the ancient history of the cocoa bean in Mexico; the early years of “chocolate” (surprise- it was a drink!) before it was accepted into European culture by the pope; and how the Swiss invented solid chocolate slabs as we know it with the use of fresh Alpine cow milk. Smell, taste and feel the various ingredients that are cultivated, roasted, poured and mixed together to create the smooth, creamy Cailler chocolate; then, learn how to properly “sample” chocolate in a tasting room. I think I “sampled” enough for 10 people…and I don’t regret a bite!
After over-indulging in the best possible place you could, drive 10 minutes down the road to the medieval city of Gruyeres. Park at the base, as the old, walled town center is not accessible by car. Get ready to work off the chocolate you just consumed by walking the steep hill up to the town!
Here, stroll around the picturesque cobblestone streets, explore Chateau de Gruyeres, and have a plate of hot, crispy roschti at one of the local restaurants lining the main square. After you roll yourself back down the hill to your car, you will notice that you are conveniently parked near the Maison Gruyeres…aka, home of Gruyere cheese. If you have the time and culinary drive, it is worth going inside for the interactive exhibition or to purchase some of Switzerland’s best cheeses to take home for dinner!
- More information on the cheese and chocolate region of Gruyeres and various fun tours and activities: https://www.la-gruyere.ch/en/Z9301/cheese-and-chocolate
- Maison Cailles: https://www.lake-geneva-switzerland.com/freiburg-fribourg/gruyeres/visit-la-maison-cailler-chocolate-factory-near-gruyeres/
- Maison Gruyeres: https://www.lamaisondugruyere.ch/visits-discoveries/interactive-exhibition/
Stay tuned for my next post on the world-famous town of Zermatt and the Swiss spa town of Leukerbad!
Oh how I waited in anticipation for this particular post! And sure enough it took me back vividly to our 2011 Switzerland trip, in which a few wine-tasting, vineyard-gazing days were spent in Lavaux. It’s all there for ones eyes to behold, a vision of spectacular scenery from any vantage point. MERCI Isabelle!
So inspiring! I want to be there, walk in your footsteps, eat the food and drink the wine……so glad your adventures continue. I was wondering where you guys were, sounds and looks incredible.