Switzerland, the True Fairy Tale- Part One: The Bernese Oberland

The Swiss are a greathearted and spirited people. At every turn, hoisted high on the red-tiled roofs of grand hotels, affixed to the flower boxes on Alpine chalets, displayed out front of restaurants and sailing atop the bows of ferryboats, the cheerful red and white Swiss flag waves proudly. “Swiss Made” is stamped on Swiss products and backed with a solid “Swiss Guarantee.” Even “CH” bumper stickers rule the road. Yes, the Swiss are a proud people.

And they should be. Their Alps leave you speechless with their dramatic beauty. Their glacial rivers and lakes are pristine. Their hilly pastures are vibrant green. Their fluffy-eared cows are healthy and productive. Their cheese is some of the best in the world. They invented chocolate as we know it today. Their clocks, their electric trains and their people are always on time. Their wine regions are unbelievably stunning and the wine itself so sublime that family vineyards don’t even export it; rather, it is saved to be enjoyed by Switzerland’s own people and its secret kept with the few others that know. In this country, long-standing tradition and quality reign. Not to mention, with the outdoor lifestyle as a society standard and the Alps in most people’s backyards, Switzerland consistently ranks as one of the healthiest countries in the world with the highest quality of life. And on top of everything else, this country is even a global symbol of peace. Switzerland is a jewel. And its citizens know it, love it, care for it, work hard to preserve it and proudly show it off when visitors come to see for themselves if the fairy tale is true.

…and it is true! I know, because I was there for three weeks (and could have stayed months, or forever….) I saw the magical truth with my own eyes. I will now attempt to summarize the dream-like state I have been in as my feet slowly float back down to the ground…

We landed in Zurich and, after duly noting that an Essie nail polish was 23 Swiss francs, hopped on the first train to Bern. Note to readers: Zurich is truly an incredible city. Just…don’t buy anything there, it’s the third most expensive city in the world. For this reason we didn’t opt to stay in Zurich, but instead started our tour in the city of Bern, which only ranks 10th most expensive city in the world- which is better! Of note, Geneva is 11th. As you can see, Switzerland’s economy is booming, as if this country needs another well-made, quality-guaranteed gold star! 😉 

• A word about transportation- how we got around Switzerland: The Swiss Travel Pass. There are various versions of this card depending on your needs, and you can read the details of each here: https://www.swiss-pass.ch/ The traditional Swiss Travel Pass is a card that you buy for a set price which covers the costs of all trains, buses and ferry boats plus significant discounts on cable cars, all for a set amount of time: either 3, 4, 8, or 15 consecutive days. If you plan to stay one week or more and/or plan to do a lot of sightseeing and moving around, definitely consider the Swiss Travel Pass. It’s also convenient: you can purchase one at the train station; then, going forward, just show it to the conductor on the train- no advance purchase of tickets needed. It even covers entrance fees to many museums and castles. We saved hundreds of dollars by using our passes to take public transportation all throughout the country; Alpine villages included. The Swiss public transportation system is phenomenal. It is efficient, well-connected, easy to navigate, and sparkling clean with huge windows and gorgeous views wherever you go. Fun fact: you technically don’t even need to own a car in Switzerland- by law, there is a train, bus or boat that goes to every single town.

Bern is the capital of Switzerland and a medieval architecture-lover’s delight. It is built around a bend in the Aare River, and it’s expansive Old City (aka. Altstadt) is what I’d describe as a large-scale medieval town. Balconies and window flower boxes overflow with red and pink blooms (which I soon came to discover is the norm in Switzerland) and cobblestone streets wind around corners, leading to sunny squares where coffee shops overlook old churches and parliament buildings still in use today. Bern is a relatively small city, and we were able to walk around much of the Altstadt in one day, enjoy a leisurely lunch and admire the view from the bridge before we headed up to the Bernese Oberland for the next three days.

• Where we stayed in Bern: Bern Backpackers Hostel, otherwise known as Hotel Glocke. This hostel was centrally located in the Old City, walking distance from the train, friendly and exceptionally clean. Highly recommended for a budget option! Private and shared rooms available: https://www.booking.com/hotel/ch/bern-backpackers-glocke.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1

As our train climbed out of Bern and high into the Bernese Oberland, my heart was pounding with excitement. My face was glued to the window, my eyes as big as saucers! Distant blue-gray outlines of the highest Alps peaks grew closer and greener as the rolling pastures around me sprung upwards, transforming into towering monuments of earth. Ice blue streams trickled and carved their way steadily downhill to meet glittering lakes, held in a gentle embrace by mammoth mountain ranges. Groups of towering fir trees stood in unison, their pine boughs waving gently as we passed by. Brown and white cows watched us calmly as they munched away, their cowbells chiming softly in the breeze. Finally, I stepped out onto the Wengen mountain train platform and inhaled the clean, invigorating air. I looked out over the Lauterbrunnen Valley, a carpet of green dipping low between soaring, snow-capped peaks as far as I could see in all directions. Wooden Alpine chalets out of a storybook dotted the hillside as the sun shone it’s last afternoon rays on their postage stamp gardens. A rush overcame me. Tears of pure happiness and sheer awe rolled down my face. The majestic beauty and infinite grace of the Swiss Alps washed over me as I stood there on our balcony….

…ahem. This is the point where John usually smiles at me and gives me a big hug, because this happens EVERY TIME I am in the Alps. That’s right, every time! And yes, in just as dramatic a fashion. It’s true. Don’t laugh! Have you ever cried out of sheer beauty and connection with someplace on Earth? If not, you’re missing out. I highly recommend it 🙂 Yes, there is something about these mountains that more than tugs at my heartstrings. It’s as if a part of my heart is buried deep in the Alps, and every time I return it’s like coming home after a long trip. For those of you that know her, I suppose you can say I am my mother’s daughter 😉 In my heart, I must be a true Swiss.

The Bernese Oberland is iconic Switzerland. We took advantage of the gorgeous weather (65 degrees and sunny every day- quelle chance!) to see as much of this area as we could in three days. The Oberland is a region of the Alps comprised of several dreamy Alpine villages built on hillsides and in valleys (the main area being the Lauterbrunnen Valley) and connected by mountain cogwheel trains, cable cars and hiking paths.

We stayed in the picturesque village of Wengen. Travel tip: you can stay in any of the villages- they are all straight out of a storybook- but I would recommend basing yourself in either Wengen, Lauterbrunnen, or Murren as they provide the easiest access to many of the hiking trails and summit viewpoints. Of note, Wengen and Murren are pedestrian-only villages, which adds to the charm. Others not to miss visiting are Grindelwald and Gimmelwald (which, despite their similar names, are indeed two different villages.)

• Where we stayed in Wengen: Modestly, they call themselves Pasta & More Bed & Breakfast. In reality, this is a beautiful, classic hotel with rooms connected to the adjacent Hotel Victoria, balconies overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley and an impressive breakfast spread included in your stay: https://www.booking.com/hotel/ch/pasta-and-more-bed-and-breakfast.xu.html?aid=1661650&no_rooms=1&group_adults=1

So! Alors! Here follows our 3 day, 4 night itinerary, which I would repeat in a heartbeat- the only change is that I’d stay longer! You could spend more than a week in the Bernese Oberland and never see it all, but if you love the mountains as much as I do, 3-4 full days here is definitely the minimum.

Day 1: After enjoying the fantastic breakfast spread included with our hotel stay, we mosey-ed less than 500 feet over to the Mannlichen cable car, which is situated right in Wengen. We rode the cable car to the peak of Mannlichen mountain, where we gazed down at gorgeous views of the Lauterbrunnen valley on one side and the town of Grindelwald on the other.

From Mannlichen, we walked the Panoramaweg, a beautiful, easy trail with panoramic views of the sloping Grindelwald valley and the formidable Jungfrau, Eiger and Munchen straight ahead. In less than an hour we arrived in Kleine Scheidegg, an adorable mountain train station with a Swiss cafe, where we took the next cogwheel train up to the Jungfrau Peak.

The Jungfrau Peak (aka. Jungfraujoch) is a must-see in this region. A main part of the attraction is that it has the highest railway in Europe, which means that you can stand on one of the highest mountain summits in Europe without having to ice-climb vertical rock faces to get there! Although the ticket prices definitely give you lasting sticker shock, the Swiss Travel Pass included a deep discount and when we arrived at the top, we were delighted to find out that the Jungfrau tickets include more than just an impressive view. The self-guided tour at the summit walks you through a carved-out glacier palace, snowy outdoor observation decks and a bit of history about the creation of the Jungfrau railway.

After soaking in 360 degree views of frosted mountain peaks and glaciers as far as the eye could see, we took the train back down to Kleine Scheidegg and then to Lauterbrunnen. For the rest of the afternoon, we walked around this beautiful town built in a valley with cliffs on either side and fairytale waterfalls that stream down them. The most iconic is the Staubbach waterfall, a clear ribbon of ice water that plunges from nearly 1,000 ft above and creates an enchanting backdrop for the town. Appropriately, Lauterbrunnen means “many springs” in German. For those of you that are Lord of the Rings fans, this valley was J.R.R. Tolkein’s inspiration for the elven realm of Rivendell.

That night, we devoured delicious plates of roschti while sitting outside wrapped in warm blankets at the cozy, traditional Restaurant Weidstubli in Lauterbrunnen.

Day 2: Today is a big day! Rising on the earlier side, we finished breakfast and headed to the other side of the Lauterbrunnen valley. Here, we hiked the Mountain View Trail (moderate difficulty, 2-3 hours) from Grutschalp to Murren. This trail was simply STUNNING. After panorama upon panorama of grassy fields and pine forests set in front of snowy peaks and blue skies, we began our descent into the village of Murren…which is one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen in my life.

Alpine cows grazed next to us, their cowbells tinkling, as we walked down a winding footpath to the chalets below. I don’t think I blinked for 20 straight minutes. Travel tip: if moderate difficulty isn’t for you, walk the Panoramaweg from Grutschalp to Murren instead- the path is flat and easy, but the views equally as breathtaking!

The village of Murren is where I would choose to have a chalet (…in my daydreams, which for the record are frequent 🙂 ) Floating through this village of classic chalets with alpine geraniums and cascading petunias of all colors spilling out of windows and over balconies, and charming cafes with terraces overlooking the mountains and valley below…you almost have to slap yourself in the face to realize you’re not dreaming. This Swiss fairy tale is true!

From Murren, we took a cable car up to the Schilthorn summit. Again, peaks upon peaks upon peaks, like rock waves, extended out to create an exquisitely jagged horizon. From this summit, you can see all the way into France and Germany.

Back in Murren, we took a mountain train to Gimmelwald. This town is special because it is quieter and more out-of-the-way than some of the others; we barely encountered any other visitors. It was just us, the cows, a local farmer or two, and…the most beautiful, authentic Alpine biergarten of all time, Pension Gimmelwald! It’s near the entrance, you can’t miss it. Here, sitting on a wooden balcony overlooking the Alps, we grinned at each other over frosty glasses of Swiss beer and Swiss cider, and felt very lucky.

That night, we trudged wearily into a restaurant in Wengen and ate our weight in raclette (John’s first ever! He is a big fan. I now have approval to add both a raclette and a fondue set to our kitchen at home…)

Day 3: Our last full day in the Bernese Oberland, we hiked my all-time favorite hike of the trip and were lucky enough to have the company of my parents wonderful Swiss best friends. After meeting in Lauterbrunnen mid-morning, we rode the cable car up to Murren and then Allmendhubel, where the North Face Trail began (easy to moderate, approx 3 hours). This trail is a loop, starting in Allmendhubel and ending just down the hill in Murren.

As if every other view didn’t already take my breath away, this hike took whatever was left of it, and then some. We walked through hilly fields and pine forests, over bridges and streams, past chalets and farms, alongside peaceful cows and finally down a sloping road to Murren. The entire way, sweeping vistas of the Alps became more stunning with every turn. If you’re going to do one hike in the Oberland, this would be my pick! And of course, what hike would be complete without a picnic midway? My parents good friends knew that a chilled bottle of champagne, salty chips, roasted nuts, dried fruit and Swiss chocolate would put the cherry on top of a fantastic afternoon 🙂

After a leisurely, late lunchbreak in Murren, we made the decision to forego our last night in Wengen and instead accept my parents friends heartfelt offer to host us at their countryside home near Fribourg. We collected our bags, bid adieu to the majestic Bernese Oberland (for now!) and piled into the car.

That night, we enjoyed homemade roschti, weisswurst and wine, while laughing and conversing in French (me), German (John), both French and German (my parents friends) and a bit of English here and there (everybody). Falling asleep that night, cozy under my feather duvet in their beautiful wooden farm house, I thought about how wonderful it was to feel so welcomed and at home in Switzerland. I am proud to be Swiss and very excited to explore more of this incredible country.

COMING SOON: Switzerland, the True Fairy Tale- Part Two, covering Lavaux- the lake-side wine terraces of Switzerland!

• Where we ate and drank in the Bernese Oberland: Restaurant Weidstubli in Lauterbrunnen (Swiss traditional fare) https://www.weidstuebli.swiss/ Hotel Hornerpub in Lauterbrunnen (friendly, lively pub and hotel) http://www.hornerpub.ch/en/ Taverne Bernerhof in Wengen (classic raclette and fondue) https://wengen.swiss/de/winter/inhalte/eatstay/gastronomie/restaurant-taverne-bernerhof/
• If I had another day: I would have hiked the Romantic Trail from Mannlichen to Alpiglen (moderate, 2.5 hours), then taken the mountain train two stops down to Grindelwald to have lunch and explore this postcard-perfect town before heading back to Wengen on the train. If you have more time, definitely don’t miss Grindelwald! You can also get there by train and cable car without doing the hike. The train and cable car maps of the Jungfrau region are very helpful to navigate.
• Summer vs. Winter: Of course, this is a summer/fall itinerary (Travel tip: plan your vacation to the Bernese Oberland in late September or early October to avoid the summer crowds and get the best weather. It is important to note that many cable cars close for annual maintenance beginning around October 20th before re-opening for ski season in December, so make sure you come before this to make the most of your vacation!) In the winter, the Jungfrau region turns into a renowned ski destination…another magical trip of its own 🙂